TREKKING PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL

If you are looking for an adventurous trekking experience then, the mountains of Nepal have so much to offer you. Climb the greatest trekking peaks of Nepal to take your trekking to the next level trekking peak in Nepal.

Currently, 27 mountain peaks with an altitude between 5,849m to 6,584m have classified as ‘Trekking peak’ by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). It promotes mountain tourism and issues climbing permits for trekking peaks of Nepal. In 2002, several new trekking peaks were added to the list and divide into two different groups, i.e. Group A and B.

Group A (NMA Expedition Peaks): Basically, Group A includes new trekking peaks. The list includes 12 mountain peaks such as Cholatse, Kyazo Ri, and many more.

Group B (NMA Climbing Peaks): Group B trekking peaks include 15 mountain peaks such as Mera Peak, Kusum Kanguru, and many more.  Below, I have listed all the trekking peaks of Nepal based on their region and NMA Group.

Group A (NMA Expedition Peaks): The Group A trekking peaks located in the Khumbu or Everest region are as follows:

1: Mt. Cholatse (6,440m/21,123ft)

Mt. Cholatse is located between the Khumbu and Gokyo valleys in the Everest region of Nepal. It is also known as Jobo Lhaptshan. Together, you can also see the view of the north and east faces of Cholatse from the route to Mt. Everest base camp and Dughla village. The steep ridges and narrow snow of the magnificent but the Cholatse peak make it highly difficult and challenging. For experienced climbers, it can be a hidden gem. The trek route to the summit of Mt. Cholatse starts from the Lukla to Namche Bazaar. After Namche Bazaar, you have to trek to Pheriche village and all the way up to the summit.

2: Mt. Phari Lapcha (6,273m/20,575ft)

Mt. Phari Lapcha is located near the Gokyo valley and along with the Mahalangur Himalayan range in the Khumbu region. It is also known as Machermo. In 2002, this trekking peak was added to the list of permitted trekking peaks by the NMA. Since then it has been gaining popularity among climbers. This trekking trail starts from the Lukla to Namche Bazaar and from Namche Bazaar to Gokyo. The steep north face of the mountain makes it challenging and technical for climbers. From the summit of Mt. Phari Lapcha, you will witness the most spectacular close-up view of several mountain ranges such as Everest, Lhotse Shar, Lhotse, Amadablam, and Nuptse. 

3: Mt. Kyajo Ri (6,186m/20,290ft)

Mt. Kyajo Ri is a classic peak, located in the north of the Namche Bazaar. The stunning view of this classic peak can also be seen from Lungden village, Machermo in the Gokyo valley and, the base of the Renjo La Pass. Trekking to Mt. Kyajo Ri is difficult and challenging enough for experienced climbers to take their trekking experience to the next level. Also, it has a beautiful basecamp in the isolated Kyajo Drangka valley.The long line of Mt. Kyajo Ri’s peak goes all the way to Mt. Cho Oyu on the border of Nepal and Tibet. Moreover, it also separates two valleys, the Thame valley (West) and the Gokyo valley (east).

4: Mt. Nirekha (6,159m/20,201ft)

Mt. Nirekha is a new trekking peak, located near the Tibetan border. It is hidden among the magnificent mountains such as Everest, Cholatse, and Cho Oyu. The climb to this peak is quite straightforward and considered a moderate trekking peak. For which you will need crampons, an ice axe, and ropes for trekking. It is suitable for climbers with modest technical skills.

5: Mt. Ombigaichen (6,340/20,795ft)

Mt. Ombigaichen is also known as Puma Dablam. It is located to the southeast of Mt. Ama Dablam and north of Mingbo la pass. In 2002, trekking to this peak was permitted by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The trekking starts from the Namche Bazzar to Ama Dablam base camp and then to the summit of Ombigaichen base camp. You will get a rewarding view of several mountain peaks such as Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and many more from the peak of Mt. Ombigaichen.

6: Mt. Abi (6,097m/19,998ft)

Mt. Abi peak refers to the twin peaks of Kangchung Shar and Kanchung Nup. These twin peaks are located at the north of the Gokyo valley.

• Abi-Kangchung Shar (pyramid) (6,103m/20,023ft): The wonderful twin peaks of Kangchung can be easily seen from all the high points around the Gokyo region. The word Kangchung means ‘small mountains’ in Sherpa Language.

The climb from the south side of the peak is quite straightforward up an icefall. The knobby view of the eastern side of the peak is a steep pyramid. However, the north side of the peak is impossible to pass.

• Abi-Kangchung Nup (Cholo) 6,089m: The Kangchung Nup peak has to be climbed from a rock saddle southwest of Surprise Lake. To pass the rock ridge and snow gully, you will need 200m of rope.

After passing the rock ridge and snow gully, you will reach the small summit. From where you can pass the ridge easily in good conditions. Otherwise, You can flip a 200m rope over the gully to drop it down and climb down. The climb to Mt. Abi is adventurous and fairly difficult at the same time. Therefore, it is rarely attempted and only suggested for experienced climbers.

Moreover, you can climb both the peak by purchasing a single permit for Mt. Abi. It is a perfect peak for acclimatizing and practicing ice climbing for those who are deciding to climb higher peaks above 8000m

7: Mt. Lobuche West (6,145m/20,156ft)

The Mt. Lobuche has two different summits i.e. East summit of 6,119 m and a West summit of 6,145m. The west peak of Mt. Lobuche considers an Expedition peak by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Whereas, the east peak is considered a trekking peak. The long ridge connects both the summit but also there is a sharp gap with a significant distance between them. The west peak is rarely climbed because attempts are usually made from the east.

Group B (NMA Climbing Peaks): The Group B trekking peaks located in the Khumbu or Everest region are as follows:

8: island peak Imja Tse (6,173m/20252ft)

Imja Tse mountain is also famously known as ‘Island Peak’. Which was named by Eric Shipton because it looks like ‘an island in a sea of ice’. It is one of the most popular trekking peaks in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The climb to this peak is fairly tough and challenging full of crevasses. Also, because of insufficient acclimatization and bad weather conditions, many climbers have failed to reach the summit. Therefore, it is necessary to take an acclimatization trip to Lobuche, Kala Pattar, or any other peaks of Chukhung valley. From the Imja Tse peak, you will get a chance to see Everest more closely.

9: Mera Peak (6,476m/21,246ft) 

Mera Peak is one of the most popular trekking peaks in the Khumbu or Everest region of Nepal. It has two summits and most of the climbers attempt the easier one. By taking a higher line up to the eastern peak which consists of a steep approx. 20 meters long. It includes more trekking than climbing and is considered one of the dangerous trekking peaks. It is necessary to take an ice axe, crampons, and a fixed rope while trekking. From Lukla, the suggested days for acclimatization are of 12 days. Moreover, over routes may demand more acclimatization period and extensive mountaineering skills.

10: Lobuche East (6,105m/20,029ft)

Lobuche East is located to the southwest of Everest, above the Khumbu Glacier, and the Lobuche village. It is one of the most popular and technical trekking peaks in the Khumbu region. The false summit of Lobuche East requires at least two days of training because of its technical difficulty. As you climb the peak, the difficulty level increases and the path becomes narrower. Also, many Everest groups trek to Lobuje for acclimatization as camp 1 on Everest is of the same altitude.

11: Kongma Tse or Mehra Peak (5,817m/19,084ft)

Kongma Tse is located to the north of Kongma La, above the Khumbu Glacier, and opposite Lobuche village. This peak is among the peaks that form the Long southwest ridge of Nuptse mountain. The summit of Kongma Tse looks like a diamond-shaped glacier from the Gorakshep settlement. It is more accessible from the Bibre, near Dingboche. 

12: Kongde Ri or Kwangde (6,187m/20,298ft)

Kongde Ri is a beautiful ridge of summits, located to the southwest of Namche Bazaar, Khumbu region. You will get a stunning view of Kongde Ri waterfalls from the tea-houses or cafes of Namche Bazaar. Kongde Ri is a collective name for several peaks running to the eastern end of the Lumding Himal. The line of peaks that Kongde Ri includes are Nup Kwangde Shar, Kwangde Lho, and Nupla Khang.

13: Kusum Kanguru Peak (6,369m/20,895ft)

Kusum Kanguru is located very close to Lukla and one of the most complex trekking peaks in the Khumbu region. It conquers the southern end of Charpati Himal. Also, the Kusum Kanguru peak separates the Dudh Koshi valley from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka. There are several new routes that are difficult and require technical skills.

Pokalde (5,794m/19,009ft):

Pokalde is also one of the famous peaks in the Khumbu region. The climbing permit is not required for this peak as it is below 5,800m. It is visible from the trail between Pangboche and Pheriche village. From that trail, you can also see the Nuptse mountain standing right behind the Pokalde which makes it look smaller.

Among the various routes, most climbers prefer to take Kongma la route to climb the North Ridge of Pokalde peak. For the rocky scramble and steep ridge, you will need trekking equipment like an ice axe, crampons, and rope to climb towards the summit. From the summit, you will witness the stunning views stretching over to mountains like Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Pumori.

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